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I was never much into granny squares or the granny stitch until this year when I started this easy granny stitch crochet top! Turns out, I was so wrong about not liking the granny stitch. It’s so fun! Designing this top was such a breeze because I enjoyed every second of it. I started out with a singular granny stitch as one row of the pattern and then wanted to see where I could take it by increasing it like a bandana shape (see where I got the name from?)
One of my favorite parts of this pattern is that depending on what size you’re working on, you can get away with only a single skein of fingering-weight yarn which is perfect for those special hand-dyed hanks you have lying around. I got to use a special hank of yarn from Sewrella Yarn for this project, but there are SO many options for yarn. I list some recommended yarns below in various budget ranges so you can be sure to grab one that fits your style and price range.
Get the pattern!
FREE PATTERN: Keep scrolling to check out the FREE version of the Grandana Top.
PRINTABLE / DOWNLOADABLE PDF: You can grab a downloadable, ad-free PDF version of this pattern in my shop on Etsy.
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Everything you need to know about the pattern:
Yarn:
This pattern calls for fingering-weight yarn. I chose to use hand-dyed yarn from Sewrella Yarn but there are so many options. I’ve listed a couple below, but there are so many out there to choose from.
Hook:
3.75mm hook (or hook needed to obtain gauge) is needed.
My recommendation for the hook on this pattern is to use an ergonomic hook since the yarn is lighter in weight. My absolute favorite hooks are from Furls Crochet. I have almost every single size of Furls’ Streamline Resin hooks in various colors. They’re so comfortable for my wrist while I crochet and when working up a bunch of granny stitches with a lightweight yarn, they really help me work quickly and comfortably.
Gauge:
4.5 sts x 11 rows = 4″ using granny stitch. Block you gauge the same way you would your finished piece.
Other notions you’ll need:
- Scissors
- (optional) 4 stitch markers
- Tapestry needle or other tools to weave in ends
- Measuring tape
Sizing Info
This pattern includes sizing adjustments for both the width and length to be sure you get the perfect fit. The sizing chart below shows both the intended bust for fit as well as the actual width of the piece. This top is designed to have an open-back design so that the width of the top covers the front of the bust as well as the sides.
| Size | Yardage | Bust | Body Panel Width | Height |
| XS | 165 | 30” | 18” | 13” |
| S | 225 | 34” | 21” | 15” |
| M | 245 | 38” | 23” | 16” |
| L | 275 | 42” | 25” | 17” |
| XL | 325 | 46” | 28” | 18” |
| 2X | 375 | 50” | 30” | 20” |
| 3X | 415 | 54” | 32” | 20.5” |
| 4X | 480 | 58” | 35” | 22” |
| 5X | 535 | 62” | 37” | 23” |
Pattern Notes
- Pattern is worked from bottom to top, starting at the “tip” or bottom, then increasing in each row until the bust measurement is reached, then remaining consistent.
- The bust of this top is 60% of your regular bust measurement. The rest of this will be accounted for with straps that tie in the back. If you’re looking for the bust to go all the way around, you will need to continue increasing until you reach your desired bust, but keep in mind this will also increase the length of the top.
- Pattern is written in format for sizing XS (S, M, L, XL) (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X) and any sizes not being worked in a particular spot are marked with an x. (i.e. XS (S, M, X, X) (X, X, 4X, 5X)
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Crochet Pattern
Body Panel
Row 1: Ch 3, then dc 2 in the 3rd (last) ch from hook, then turn. [1 granny st]
Row 2: Ch 3, then dc 2 in the first st. Skip next st, then 3 dc in t-ch. Turn your work. [2 granny sts]
Row 3: Ch 3, then dc 2 in the 1st st. *dc 3 in the space between the next granny st*; repeat from * across to end, ending with 3 dc in the t-ch. Then turn. [3 granny sts]
Rows 4 – 19 (23, 25, 27, 31) (33, 35, 38, 41): Repeat row 3. [19 (23, 25, 27, 31) (33, 35, 38, 41) granny sts] You can repeat this row as many times as needed until you reach the bust measurement you’re happy with. The pattern is written so that the front bust and sides of the bust are covered but the back is left open, with ties added later. If you’d prefer more coverage around your back, repeat this row as many times as needed until you have a bust coverage you like. Keep in mind each row increase adds about 0.39” to the bust.
Row 20 (24, 26, 28, 32) (34, 36, 38, 42): Ch 2, then dc in the first st. *dc 3 in the space between the next granny st*; repeat from * across, ending with 2 dc in the t-ch. Turn your work.
Row 21 (25, 27, 29, 33) (35, 37, 39, 43): Ch 2, then *dc 3 in the space between the next granny st*; repeat from * across, ending with a dc in the t-ch. Turn your work.
Row 22 (26, 28, 30, 34) (36, 38, 40, 44): Ch 2, then *dc 3 in the sp between next granny st*; repeat from * across, ending with 2 dc in t-ch. Turn your work.
Repeat prior two rows for 16 (18, 18, 18, 18) (20, 20, 22, 22) more rows. At this point, you’ll want to make sure that slightly stretched, the piece will cover the sides of your bust as desired. Essentially, checking your under-breast areas to make sure you have desired coverage. If you’d prefer more coverage in this area, you can continue repeating the prior two rows until you reach desired coverage.
Do not cut & tie off at this point. Proceed to strap section.
Straps
Ch until you reach a length half the size of your regular bust measurement (i.e. if you have a bust measurement of 36”, chain until you reach 18”). Once done, turn and sc in each ch you created until you reach the side of the top, then sl st into the side of the top to secure the strap created to the top. Cut & tie off.
Attach your yarn at the next “corner” of the top (we are going to attach yarn to all four “corners”. The “corners” for this pattern is the top along the two sides, as well as the beginning and end of rows 22 (26, 28, 30, 34) (36, 38, 40, 44). You will attach your yarn to the next corner, ch until you reach half of your bust measurement, then sc back over these chs until you reach the side of your top, then sl st into the side of the top to secure. One complete, cut & tie off, then repeat for the next corners.
Once complete, weave in all the ends, then block the top however you prefer. I recommend steam blocking for this top.
Thanks so much for joining me in making the Grandana Top! Make sure to share your versions with us by tagging us on social media @yarnthrift and using #yarnthrift or #grandanatop! We can’t wait to see what you make.
