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Now that my favorite season is back, I figured I would share one of my first fall patterns. I released this one last year as I was starting to release my designs. This is a great fall cardigan that has a cute puff stitch detail. I still have this in my closet and wear it. I absolutely love the sleeve detail on this. It’s super cozy and the perfect addition to any fall outfit.

My favorite way to style this piece is still a simple tank top, jeans and some cute fall booties. It’s definitely a simple outfit that looks great any time. It’s a great go-to when I can’t decide what to wear.

I’ve probably (definitely) said this before but cardigans are my absolute favorite piece of clothing. Not only do I already own way too many but I also am always buying or making more. I just can’t seem to help myself and I believe there is never any harm in making another fall cardigan. They’re so cute and versatile. I can wear them over so many outfits and they’re great to bring along for chillier fall night layers or even around the house when I’m cold. Plus, there are so many different cardigan styles from cropped to knee or floor-length and all kinds of textures.

When I designed this pattern last fall I wanted something reminiscent of pumpkin spice – I mean, who doesn’t love a good pumpkin spice reference in the fall? I was also going out on a limb design-wise because I had never done a yoke design before. I’m glad to say this was my first and it was a huge success. This pattern features a square yoke design but is also beginner-friendly as it uses basic stitches along with the puff stitch. If you’ve been afraid to try a yoke design before I definitely recommend giving this a go – it works up so fast and is super fun to make.

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Pattern Info

  • pattern is worked in a square yoke as one piece for the body with sleeves and ribbing attached.
  • pattern sizes are written as S-1X (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X).

Materials

  • 6.00 mm hook needed
  • Scissors & tapestry needle required
  • Yarn: Worsted weight 4 yarn required

Stitch Abbreviations

  • ch – chain
  • st – stitch
  • sp – space
  • ch-sp – chain space
  • dc – double crochet
  • fpo – front post only
  • bpo – back post only

Special stitches

  • puff stitch – *YO, insert hook into st and pull up a loop* 5 times. Then YO and pull through all the loops on your hook.

Gauge

  • Unblocked: 12 dc x 7 rows = 4” in double crochet
  • Unblocked: 5 puffs x 6 rows = 4”

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Sizing Chart

SizeYardageBust (in.)Armhole Circumference (in.)Sleeve Length (in.)Height (neck to bottom)
S1450 yds 36”15”17” 18”
M1500 yds 38”15”17” 18”
L1550 yds42”15”17”18”
XL1600 yds46”15.5”17”19”
1X1650 yds46”15.5”18”19”
2X1700 yds50”16”18”19”
3X1750 yds54”16”19”20”
4X1800 yds58”16.5”19”20”
5X1850 yds62”16.5”19”20”
**sleeve length & armhole depth can be adjusted, instructions included in pattern**

** about 580 yards of secondary color is needed for smaller sizes and around 700 is needed for larger sizes. Primary color is about 900 yards for the smaller size through 1300 yards for the larger size **

Pattern

You can grab the downloadable PDF here!

Now we can get into the good stuff so you can add this fall cardigan to your wardrobe!

NOTE: Beginning Chain Chart: Depending on the size you’re looking for, your beginning chain will look a little different. You will need to place stitch markers at each of the mentioned chains to mark where the corners of the neckline will be.

SizeBeginning ChStitch marker placement
S8311th, 29th, 56th and 74th chains
M8512th, 30th, 57th and 75th chains
L8912th, 31st, 60th and 79th chains
XL9113th, 32nd, 61st and 80th chains
1X9313th, 32nd, 63rd and 82nd chains
2X9313th, 32nd, 63rd and 82nd chains
3X9313th, 32nd, 63rd and 82nd chains
4X9313th, 32nd, 63rd and 82nd chains
5X9313th, 32nd, 63rd and 82nd chains
*Pattern is written for sizes S-1X with sizes (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X) in parentheses*

Body

Row 1: Dc in 2nd ch from hook and in each st across. 3dc in each corner stitch (corners are marked by your stitch markers). Ch2, turn. 

Row 2-9 (12, 13, 14, 15): dc in 2nd st from hook and each st across to end making sure to dc3 into corner sts. End with a dc in the turning ch. Ch2, turn. 

  • **note** when doing 3dc in corner sts, the “corner” is the middle dc of the 3dc from the previous row

Row 10 (13, 14, 15, 16): dc in 2nd st from hook and each st across until corner. Ch2, skip over all other sts, dc in middle of next corner st. This creates the sleeve hole. Dc in next st and each st across until the next corner. Dc in first 2 sts of corner, ch2, skip over all of the next sts and dc in the middle of next corner (last corner before the row ends). Dc in each st across to end (including turning ch). Ch2, turn. 

**you will now see the arm holes formed and we will be working downward to create the rest of the body and we will add the sleeves later If the arm holes are not wide enough, you can chain a few more instead of chaining 2 to create some more depth**

Row 11 (14, 15, 16, 17): dc in 2nd st from hook and in each st across (including ch-sps created in last row and in turning ch at end of row). Ch2, turn. 

Row 12-17 (15-20, 16-21, 17-22, 18-23): dc in 2nd st from hook and in each st across (including turning ch). Ch2, turn. 

Row 18 (21, 22, 23, 24): dc in 2nd st from hook and in each st across (including turning ch). **color change to secondary color** Ch3, turn.

Row 19 (22, 23, 24, 25): dc in 3rd st from hook, ch1, puff st in st before the dc just made, ch1; *skip next st, dc in next st, ch1, puff stitch in skipped st, ch1* repeat from * across to end. Dc in turning ch. Ch3, turn.

Row 20 (23, 24, 25, 26): In 2nd sp from hook (sps are the gaps between puffs), work a dc; ch1, work a puff st in the first (skipped) sp, ch1; *skip next sp, dc in next sp, ch1, puff stitch in skipped sp, ch1*; repeat from * across until you reach the last sp before the turning ch. Dc in the turning ch, ch1, puff st in previous sp, ch1, then dc in the turning ch again. Ch3, turn. 

Row 21-23 (24-26, 25-27, 26-28, 27-29): Repeat row 20 

Row 24 (27, 28, 29, 30): In 2nd sp from hook (sps are the gaps between puffs), work a dc; ch1, work a puff st in the first (skipped) sp, ch1; *skip next sp, dc in next sp, ch1, puff stitch in skipped sp, ch1*; repeat from * across until you reach the last sp before the turning ch. Dc in the turning ch, ch1, puff st in previous sp, ch1, then dc in the turning ch again. **switch back to primary color after this stitch** Ch2, turn.

Row 25 (28, 29, 30, 31): dc in the top 2 sts of each puff st all the way across to end. Dc in the turning ch from previous row. Ch2, turn. 

Row 26-29 (29-33, 30-34, 31-35, 32-36): dc in 2nd st from hook, and each st across. End w/ dc in turning ch. Ch2, turn. 

Row 30 (34, 35, 36, 37): dc bpo in 2nd st from hook, and dc fpo in next st. *dc bpo, dc fpo* rep from * across to last st. dc in turning ch. Ch2, turn. 

Row 31-32 (35-36, 36-37, 37-38, 38-39): rep row 30. Cut & tie off. Weave in ends.

B2G1 Free Cafe and Cream Swirls

Sleeves

Row 1: Attach yarn in the armpit of the sleeve at any st. Dc in each st around, sl st into beginning st. Ch2. 

Row 2 – 17: dc in first st and each st around to end. Sl st into beginning ch2-sp. ** make sure to count your stitches after row 2 and make sure each row after has the same stitch count ** 

  • After row 17, color change to secondary color and ch3 at the end instead of 2.

Row 18: dc in 3rd ch from hook, ch1, puff st in st before the dc just made, ch1; *skip next st, dc in next st, ch1, puff in skipped st, ch1* repeat from * across, sl st into beginning ch3-sp. Ch3. 

Row 19 – 23: dc in 2nd sp from ch, ch1, puff st in skipped sp, ch1; *skip next sp, dc in next sp, ch1, puff st in skipped sp, ch1* rep from * across to end. (you will end after the ch1 after a puff st). Sl st into the beginning ch3-sp. Ch3.

  • After row 23, color change back to primary color and ch2 instead of 3.

Row 24 – 27: dc in first st and each st across to end. Sl st into ch2-sp. Ch2.

Row 28 (29, 30, 31, 32): dc in every other st across to end. Sl st into beginning ch2-sp. Ch2.

Row 29-31: dc bpo in first st, dc fpo in 2nd st, *dc bpo in next st, dc fpo in next st*; rep from * across to end. Sl st into ch2-sp. Ch2. 

  • After row 31, do not ch2. Instead, cut & tie off. Sew in ends. 

** if you require shorter or longer sleeves you can remove or add rows of dc (either rows after the puffs or before the puffs **

Edging

Pull up a loop in the bottom corner of the inside of the cardigan (where the bottom border ends on either side). 

Row 1: Ch2 and dc in each sp across all around the neckline and back down the other side. When you reach the end, ch2 and turn. 

Row 2-3: dc bpo in first st, dc fpo in next st, *dc bpo in next st, dc fpo in next st*; repeat from * across to end, end with dc in turning ch. Ch2, turn. 

Row 4: repeat row 2. Do not ch2 at the end. Instead cut & tie off, weave in all your ends.

Blocking

I chose to steam my cardigan while it was pinned on a blocking board. Be careful not to steam too closely or for too long as this can damage the fibers of the yarn. Make sure to read your yarn label carefully to make sure you’re blocking appropriately so as to not damage the fibers.

Once your cardigan is off the blocking boards you’ve got a whole new fall cardigan!

Need more fall inspiration?

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This pattern, including all photographs, schematics, & charts herein, are the intellectual property of YarnThrift LLC. & protected by copyright laws. You may not copy, sell, distribute, or claim this pattern as your own, in whole or in part. You may sell items made from this pattern, but you must credit me as the designer. All rights reserved © YarnThrift LLC. 2021