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Whether you’re in need of the perfect baby shower gift or looking to crochet something extra special for your little one, this crochet baby blanket is the perfect project to start. The Double Bubble baby blanket features the cutest bubble-like stitch pattern and a simple border that’s the perfect addition to any nursery. The color options for this blanket are endless and can even be striped! This pattern is easy to follow and works up quickly so it can be snuggled in soon.
This is my first-ever baby pattern and I’m so excited to share it! I typically focus on adult crochet garments but after inheriting some yarn from my late grandmother I knew I wanted to make some extra special baby projects that I could save and pass down in my family. This crochet baby blanket will be so loved and I cannot wait to cherish it for years to come. While I don’t yet have kids of my own, I’ll be keeping this blanket safe until that day comes.

Double Bubble Baby Blanket Pattern
While I’ve worked on blanket patterns before – like my Marigold Fields Blanket, this is my first ever baby blanket pattern and it’s an area of crochet I’m so excited to delve into. Baby blankets are such special projects to crochet. They make lovely gifts and keepsakes, and are made to last and be loved for a long time. This blanket is no different, and I absolutely love the texture this stitch pattern creates. This blanket uses the cabbage patch stitch along with a simple moss stitch border that lets the bubble-like texture really shine.
This blanket pattern can be adjusted to whatever size is desired and a sizing chart is included as well. The original blanket shown in photos measures 29″ by 29″ to be a square and the pattern is written for this sizing, with notes on altering for different sizes included.
Pattern Info
This pattern is written from the bottom up and then a border is worked all around the blanket. Included below are all the stitches, including special stitches, that you’ll used to work this pattern up as well as a blanket sizing chart, gauge information, and a list of materials.
Materials
- Worsted weight yarn (I used Red Heart Super Saver) – can substitute any yarn that meets gauge
- 5.00mm crochet hook (or hook needed to meet gauge)
- measuring tape
- scissors

Stitch Abbreviations
- ch – chain
- st – stitch
- sp – space
- dc – double crochet
Gauge Information
To make a gauge swatch, you’ll want to crochet at least a 6 x 6″ square – we’ll measure the interior 4″ of the square to ensure an accurate gauge.
Your overall gauge should be about 4″ = 4 baubles wide x 4 baubles high
To make your gauge swatch, follow the below pattern;
Ch 27
Row 1: Work 4 dc in the 5th ch from your hook. * Skip 3 chs, then 4dc in next ch*; repeat from * until there are 2 chs left. Skip next ch and work 1 dc in last ch.
Row 2: Ch 3 & turn. Working in the 4th dc of the cluster in the previous row, make one dc in that st. Ch 2, then make a dc in the first dc of the cluster in the previous row (that you skipped over to make the first dc of this new row). *Make a dc in the 4th dc of the next cluster, ch 2, then work a dc into the first dc of the next cluster (that was skipped)*; repeat from * across, working a dc in the turning ch of the previous row.
Row 3: Ch 3 & turn. Working into the ch-2 sp of the previous row, work 4 dc in that sp. Continue working 4dc into each ch-2 sp across the row until the end. At the end of the row make a dc in the turning ch of the previous row.
Repeat rows 2 & 3 for 8 more rows. Then you can take your swatch gauge measurement (4″ x 4″) out of the middle of this swatch to get the most accurate gauge reading.
Sizing Information & Size Adjustment Chart
The pattern is written for a 29″ by 29″ baby blanket but can be made in any size. The size chart below will give you the starting chain count and number of rows needed to complete various blanket sizes.
Size | Starting Ch | Yardage | Length (in.) | Height (in.) |
Receiving Blanket | 111 | 710 | 29 | 29 |
Baby Blanket | 115 | 1,095 | 36 | 36 |
Toddler | 175 | 2,030 | 45 | 60 |
Throw | 203 | 2,450 | 52 | 60 |
Twin Bed | 259 | 5,250 | 66 | 90 |
Double/Full | 331 | 6,400 | 84 | 90 |

Double Bubble Baby Blanket Pattern
Body:
Ch 111 (or follow the chain count in the sizing chart if you’ve chosen an alternate blanket size)
Row 1: Work 4 dc in the 5th ch from your hook. * Skip 3 chs, then 4dc in next ch*; repeat from * until there are 2 chs left. Skip next ch and work 1 dc in last ch.
Row 2: Ch 3 & turn. Working in the 4th dc of the cluster in the previous row, make one dc in that st. Ch 2, then make a dc in the first dc of the cluster in the previous row (that you skipped over to make the first dc of this new row). *Make a dc in the 4th dc of the next cluster, ch 2, then work a dc into the first dc of the next cluster (that was skipped)*; repeat from * across, working a dc in the turning ch of the previous row.
Row 3: Ch 3 & turn. Working into the ch-2 sp of the previous row, work 4 dc in that sp. Continue working 4dc into each ch-2 sp across the row until the end. At the end of the row make a dc in the turning ch of the previous row.
Rows 4-27: Repeat rows 2 & 3. Do not cut & tie off at the end. Once you complete your final row, move on to the border section. [if you’re working an alternate blanket size, continue on past row 27 to the row listed in the size chart for the size you are working]
Border:
Row 1: Without cutting or tying off your working yarn, ch 2 & turn. Skip the first st, then sc in the next st. *Ch 1, skip next st then sc in next st*; repeat * to * until you get to the next corner of the blanket. In the corner, work (sc, ch 1, sc)**. Go back and repeat * to ** until you reach your origin point. At this point, ch 1, then sl st to connect to your beginning ch. This creates the fourth “corner”. [Note: if you reach a corner st or the end and there are 2 sts left before it instead of 1, skip 2 sts instead of 1. I.e. you have 2 sts left before you work the corner. Skip both sts, then work the corner as usual and continue with the rest of the pattern as written. Some sizes may run into this]
Row 2: Ch 1 & turn. Work (sc, ch 1, sc) in middle of corner space (this will be the last ch-1 worked from the previous row). Then work *ch 1, skip next st, sc in next st* until your next corner. In the corner st, work (sc, ch 1, sc)**; repeat from * to ** until you reach your origin point. Sl st into the starting ch. [You should have a sc in each ch-sp from the prior row, and a ch-1 over each sc from the prior row.]
Row 3: Ch 1 & turn. Continue working pattern of working a sc into each ch-sp from the prior row and chaining 1 in between each sc. When you get to a corner, work (sc, ch 1, sc) into each corner. When you reach your beginning ch, sl st into it. After this row, cut & tie off, weaving in all ends.
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