Snow Armor Sweater | Crochet Pattern

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Awhile back I was sitting around trying to figure out what my next make should be. I realized most of my crochet patterns focused on womens designs and sizing but I’ve always wanted to create more inclusive patterns that men could wear as well. That’s where the idea for this sweater came from. During the process of creating it I tried it on myself as well as my lovely boyfriend who generously agreed to help model to make sure that it would fit both of our body types. I am so happy with the result and hope you’ll all love it as well!

Information & Materials:

Lion Brand Heartland Yarn: 5oz/142g | 251yds/230m
- I used Lion Brand Wool Ease for the sleeves and this is a good substitute for the body as well.
5.5mm crochet hook
Scissors
Stitch markers (at least 4)
Tapestry needle (or other method to weave in ends)
Measuring tape or ruler (to check gauge)
Gauge:
- Un-blocked: 13 sts x 12 rows = 4″ (hdc)
- Blocked: 14 sts x 8 rows = 4″ (hdc)

Stitch Abbreviations:

Ch – chain
Sl st – slip stitch
Sc – single crochet
Tr – treble crochet
Dc – double crochet
Hdc – half double crochet
Bpo – back post only
Fpo – front post only
Work behind – going behind the stitches previously worked, insert your hook from front to back in specified stitch.
Work in front – going in front of stitches previously worked, insert your hook from back to front in specified stitch

Sizing Chart:

Size	Yardage	Starting Ch. Count	Width/Bust	Body Rows	Height	Sleeve Depth	Sleeve Length
S	1400	57	34″	63 [48 sc rows, 15 V rows]	23″	7″	22″
M	1600	65	37″	63 [48 sc rows, 15 V rows]	23″	7″	22″
L	1700	69	40″	71 [54 sc rows, 17 V rows]	25″	7.5″	23″
XL	1900	77	44″	71 [54 sc rows, 17 V rows]	25″	7.5″	23″
2X	2100	85	49″	79 [60 sc rows, 19 v rows]	27″	7.5″	25″
3X	2320	93	53″	79 [60 sc rows, 19 v rows]	27″	8″	25″
4X	2550	101	58″	83 [63 sc rows, 20 v rows]	29″	8″	27″
5X	2700	105	60″	83 [63 sc rows, 20 v rows]	29″	9″	27″

Pattern Notes:

Pattern is worked in 2 pieces then seamed together. Sleeves are added after and worked in the round.
Chains at beginning of rows do not count as a stitch unless otherwise noted.
Some sizes may not finish a full “V” row and may end halfway through
Sizing is made to fit snugly – if you prefer a looser-fitting sweater, we recommend sizing up.

Grab the downloadable PDF here!

Pattern:

Body Panel (make 2):

**Chs at the beginning/end of each row do not count as the first st unless otherwise noted**

Ch the # of chs designated in the sizing chart under column “Starting Ch Count”

Row 1: [add a stitch marker in the current chain to mark the right side of the garment] sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each st across. Ch1, turn.

Row 2: sc in each st across, ch1, turn.

Row 3: sc in each st across, ch3, turn.

Row 4: *Skip next 2 sts, tr in next st, working behind last tr, dc in each of 2 skipped sts; dc in next st, skip next st, dc in next 2 st; working in front of last 2 dc made, tr into the skipped st, dc in next st; rep from * across. Ch1, turn. (depending on sizing, you may not finish a full V row but instead end halfway through)

Row 5-7: sc in each st across. Ch1, turn.

**repeat rows 4-7 for pattern until you reach # of rows designated in the sizing chart** (for extra length, or less length, add or remove rows as necessary, making sure that both of your body panels have the same # of rows)

At the end of the body, add ribbing by following the below;

Row 1: Ch1, hdc in each space around.

Row 2: Ch1, *hdc bpo in next st, hdc fpo in next st*; repeat from * across to end, sl st into starting ch.

Row 3: Rep row 2. Cut & tie off at end.

Attaching the Body:

Lay the 2 body panels flat with one panel on the wrong side and one on the right side (stitch markers should be facing left and right respectively) as seen below.

Panels before sleeves are marked:

Move the panel on the left over so it is on top of the panel on the right as seen below. At this point, flip the garment inside out so that you are crocheting on the side without the raised stitches. At this point, place stitch markers where you want your sleeves to end on both sides of the body, making sure the # of rows is the same on each side. (I chose 7” below the top for a size M – 20 rows below top). You can find recommended sleeve depths in the sizing chart to help guide you in this step, but you can make the sleeves looser/tighter as you please. Starting at the bottom again, attach your yarn and slip stitch up the side of both panels until you reach the sleeve stitch markers. Cut & tie off.

Panels placed on top of each other to attach (without sleeves marked):

Creating the neckline:

Flip the body so that it is now right side out (raised stitches should face outward). Attach your yarn at the top left or right corner of the work above the sleeve space. Seam along both sides of the panels to create the neckline. Do this on both sides of the top of the sweater. I.e. 7 sts on one one side = 7 sts on opposite side as well.

*if the neckline appears too tight, lessen the seaming evenly from both sides until it is wide enough. Keep in mind that the neckline will also have ribbing added at the end that will add about an inch*

** you can adjust neckline to be tighter by seaming more sts together on either side and looser by seaming less sts together on each side **

Neckline Ribbing:

At the seam line for the neck, attach yarn using original color.

Row 1: Ch1, hdc in each st around, sl st into beginning ch. [insert stitch marker to keep track of rounds]

Row 2: Ch1 & turn, *hdc bpo in next st, hdc fpo in next st*; repeat from * across to end, sl st into beginning ch. [move stitch marker to keep track of rounds]

Row 3: rep row 2.

Cut & tie off, sew in all ends from project.

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Sleeves (done twice):

Using your 2nd color (if you have one), attach your yarn to one of the stitch markers in place for the sleeves.

Row 1: Ch1 (doesn’t count as 1st st), hdc in each st around, sl st into beginning ch. (move your stitch marker as needed to keep track of the seam line)

Row 2 – 7: Ch1 & turn (doesn’t count as 1st st), hdc2tog in next 2 sts, *hdc in next 10 sts, hdc2tog in next 2 sts*; repeat from * across to end, sl st into beginning ch. (move stitch marker as needed to keep track of seam line) **note: you may not always end on an even 10 sts at the end of these rows**

**repeat row 2 until you reach the width of sleeve you are looking for – you may not need to decrease for all 7 rows. Once you reach the desired width, replace remaining rows with Row 8 below**

Row 8 – 44(46 – L/XL, 48 – 2X/3X, 50 – 4X/5X): Ch1 & turn (doesn’t count as 1st st, hdc in each st around, sl st into beginning ch. (move stitch marker as needed to keep track of seam line) [to adjust length, add or remove any # of these rows as needed]

**repeat row 8 as many times as needed to achieve desired sleeve length (before ribbing – ribbing is about 1-1.5”**

Row 45 – 48(47-50, 49-52, 51-54): Ch1 & turn (doesn’t count as 1st st, *hdc bpo in next st, hdc fpo in next st*; repeat from * across to end, sl st into beginning ch. [move stitch marker as needed to keep track of seam line]

Cut & tie off.

Blocking:

Once done with your finished piece, either lay flat or hang the piece and steam it to block it. Blocking creates a better drape and fit and evens out your stitches. Alternatively, you can wet block and use foam or blocking boards to even out your piece.

Be careful when blocking that you don’t damage the yarn. Don’t steam for too long or too close as this could damage the fibers of the yarn. Always check the tag on your yarn to see if the yarn is able to take heat/water.

Once blocking is done, let dry and you have your finished piece!

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